The idea was simple, a nail was transformed into a piece of jewellery shaped in gold. How the Juste un Clou bracelet became a cult design piece
The Juste un Clou bracelet, just like the Love bracelet, is a cult design among the Cartier stable. Self-confessedly by Cartier it is first and foremost a nail, simply: a nail transformed into a piece of jewellery. It’s the purity of the line that transforms said simple nail into a precious object and the design of the Juste un Clou bracelet is revealed in a single stroke of design. It was Cartier’s aim to reduce the piece to its purest form: structure. Easy to read and instantly understandable.
When the Juste un Clou bracelet was created in 1971 at Cartier New York (soon after the Love bracelet), it was known as the Nail bracelet. The name would change some time later when the bracelet returned in the 2000s and was called Juste un Clou, which sounds a little more alluring. Today the collection exists in yellow gold, rose gold and white gold, in both paved and non-paved designs. It also incorporates rings, brooches, necklaces and pendant earrings.
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Since its invention by Aldo Cipullo, some 50 years ago now, the piece has become a classic, a cult piece which boasts an industrial aesthetic. At the time of launch it made Cartier relevant to a younger and more fashionable audience. Among Ciupullo’s lasting legacies was to make jewellery an everyday accessory as opposed to something one would only save for best.
Such was its success that in 2012 Cartier relaunched the Juste un Clou bangle and released an entirely new collection based around it. The new Juste un Clou offering included rings as well as bangles, all shaped like those original bent nails, and each made in rose, white, and yellow gold; others were outfitted with pavé diamonds set into the “head” of the nail.
By 2017, the Juste un Clou collection grew and extended to earrings, cufflinks, tie pins, as well as a torque necklace. The Juste un Clou bangle is still the most coveted, though. And feels especially modern among today’s designs.
Jewellery Icon: Cartier Juste Un Clou
Notably, the Juste un Clou features precise ridges before the head of the nail: five are engraved in the bracelets and four in the rings, which are indeed reminiscent of flat-headed hardware nails with identical engravings.
When it debuted, one could purchase the 18-karat gold bangle for between $250 and $750, which translates to approximately £180 to £544. The price has gone up considerably since then, you’re looking at around £3, 000 at least.
Supposedly, Cipullo and his brother would make frequent trips to the Hippodrome hardware store on 45th street in New York City and this is where inspiration came from for the bracelet, as well as the other Cartier favourite, the Love bracelet. Apparently, Cipullo loved to hve a good look around, touch everything mechanical, and saw household objects as a blank canvas for transformation.
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The designer is the subject of a book, in fact, that details this, Making Jewellery Modern published by Assouline, which traces the success story of the 23-year-old pioneering Italian. Produced by his brother Renato Cipullo, who wanted to honour the importance of his work and commemorate his life as well as the era in which he lived, the book celebrates the talents of the modern jeweller, who joined Cartier in 1969 and was there until 1974. It was in the space of just four years that he created both the Love and Clou bracelets. Cipullo wanted to design timeless, unisex jewellery pieces full of symbolism that were years ahead of their time. To do so, he was aided by Cartier, a brand that freed the jeweller’s energy, his taste for geometry and his often radical forms allowing his ability as a jeweller and goldsmith to open new creative doors.
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The Story Of Cartier's Love Bracelet
Sign up for our newsletter for the best stories and ideas straight to your inbox, carefully curated by Something About Rock's editors.The legend tells that some New York hospitals are equipped with the golden micro screwdrivers needed to open them if a patient in an emergency arrives wearing one.
The Love Bracelet by Cartier , is still to this day one of the most successful creations of the French high jewellery brand. Born in 1969, not in the golden Parisian atelier, but in the Cartier jewellery workshop in New York , it was since the moment of its launch a real revolution within the industry. The creator of the Love Bracelet is Aldo Cipullo , an Italian jewellery designer, who in the course of his life also designed the Juste un Clou , the Cartier bracelet shaped as a curved nail.
and chose to translate it on a gold-plated silver bracelet with an oval shape that it remains as attached as possible to the wrist. The designer then decided to makes the Love bracelet genderless: at the time, wearing a jewel that was not intended for either sex, in particular, was revolutionary.
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Another important detail was the hermetic seal. The Love Bracelet by Cartier was designed to remain tightly closed on the wrist thanks to a system of small screws that surrounded it along the entire surface. The bracelet can only be opened by the loved one, who, equipped with a small gold screwdriver that triggers the mechanism by “freeing” the wrist.
At the time of the launch, everyone went crazy for it: Cartier promoted the bracelet by gifting one to the most famous couples of the moment. From the Dukes of Windsor to Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti, up to Elizabeth Taylor and her husband Richard Burton. All of them wore the Cartier’s Love Bracelet as a symbol of a deep union.
Like many jewels, the Cartier’s Love Bracelet has also been the subject of many legends. As reported by Town and Country, originally, only real couples in love were able to purchase it. But then once the demand increased and the emergency of a counterfeit market, Cartier decided to start marking each example of Love with a recognizable serial number that authenticates them.
Cartier Love & Juste Un Clou; All You Need To Know.
Today is still a versatile bracelet, an object that can be handed down, given as a gift, suitable for all hours of the day and not necessarily combined with occasional clothes. No longer made of silver but solid gold, Cartier also offers this piece in different versions such as rings, earrings, pendants and necklaces, all symbols of great eternal love.
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